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 |  My 390 engine ground was off for a while. Did I -- Steve M, 06/26/2004
Is there any part on the car that could have been shorted, or hurt by driving around without my engine ground connected? I just noticed it was hanging there. The car is surging and just isnt running as good as it used to last month. |
|  | The ground that was off was the -- Steve M, 06/26/2004
one to the chassis from the back of the block if that helps. |
|  | RE: My 390 engine ground was off for a while. Did I -- John, 06/27/2004
Worst case (and most likely other than nothign at all happening) is your alternator may die...other electronics such as radio, electronics ignition (which you don't have), etc.....possibly. In all likely-hood...npothing bad will happen.....certainly the "tough electrical stuff", such as coil condensor, and points will not be hurt.
Now, the alternator CAN go....and then the DC voltage will be only 12 volts, not 13.8 (OK...14 avg)...and that can affect the spark and make it weak. Start the car....put a voltmeter across the battery....you should get approx 14 VDC while idling....only 12 with car shut off. If the alternator isn't putting out, your ignition will be weak and you may find your power down a bit under heavy load at higher rpm.
Most likely your power problem is unrelated to your ground being off and there is no electrical problems. |
| |  | RE: My 390 engine ground was off for a while. Did I -- Steve M, 06/27/2004
Thanks. |
| motor mounts -- Dale Cecil, 06/26/2004
I have searched the archives, and none of the posts seems to be specific to my question. I am getting ready to install my engine in my car. It is a 1964 390 block going into a 68 Mustang. The 64 block has only 2 mounting holes in it. It was previously in the car with some homemade custom solid motor mounts.
My question is this. Can I get the original style mounts with the rubber insulators and modify them to bolt up to my block? My frame section is still in stock configuration as the previous solid mounts were made to fit the existing holes.
What all pieces would I need, and what kind of fabrication would be necessary?
I looked at the Total Control website, and they have a nice set of mounts, but the holes look to run horizontal, and my two holes are situated vertically.
Again, thanks for your help.
Dale
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|  | RE: motor mounts -- Lucas, 06/28/2004
Dale;
Try these part numbers for your motor mounts:
driver side Sealed Power 270-2289
pass. side Sealed Power 270-2290 |
| | RE: motor mounts -- craig stanfield, 06/30/2004
Anyone know of urethane mounts for a '69CJ into a '67 Fairlane Ranchero? Are those Total Control mounts Mustang ONLY? I can't get them to respond. Craig |
| Holley help for a FE -- Steve, 06/25/2004
I need to know what size jets came in a holley 750 double pumper.The guy at the shop told me 71's and 76's which I bought but now my car bogs pretty bad.I'm just trying to find a good starting point and then go from there.Its a 67 mustang gt with a 390 4 speed. |
| | RE: Holley help for a FE -- Ross, 06/26/2004
Got a Holley List #? |
| | | RE: Holley help for a FE -- Steve, 06/26/2004
4779 |
| | | | RE: Holley help for a FE -- gene simmons, 06/26/2004
there was 10 different versions of that one but they are pretty close in jetting which is 70 or 71 pri and 80 sec for most, when does it bog under what conditions, i imagine u can repeat it. did it ever work good or is it something u just put on, what was on it before, etc.
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| | | | | RE: Holley help for a FE -- Ross, 06/26/2004
Gene is right.
If I were you I'd go back to stock 4779 settings to start. Buy a Holley rebuild kit and follow the directions. Particularly on float level and accel pump setup.
Put the 6.5 power valve on the front side, and it shouldnt have a PV on the back, then put the 71/80 jetting in.
Odds are this is an accel pump or float level problem if its in the carb not a jetting problem, but I;d still go back to 71/80.
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| | Today.................. -- Steve, 06/26/2004
I put a pair of 68's primary and still the 76's secondary and the car runs much better,Its got fpa headers and edelbrock heads with a mild 520 lift cam and P.I. intake and 4 speed with 3.50 gears.Timing is set at 38 degrees.I'm only getting about 12'' of vacuum at idle. Does this sound correct? With the 71's in there as primarys the thing boged really bad.Thanks everyone. |
| | | RE: Today.................. -- Ross, 06/27/2004
Bigging is rarely an issue of too much fuel, its usually too little. My guess is that you either have power valve in the front that is too low, or even more likely, misadjusted accel pumps |
| | | | That would be "bogging" LOL n/m -- Ross, 06/27/2004
n/m |
| Resto update -- Dale Cecil, 06/25/2004
Here is an update on my project. I have a 68 Mustang GT coupe 390 4sp that I am restoring. I got the engine back from the machine shop on Tuesday of this week, June 22, 2004. We have all of the parts, crank, pistons, bearings, cam etc. Everything has been balanced and is ready for reassembly. We may be able to get started on that this weekend.
I was working on the transmission today, and I have a couple of questions. First of all, I am going to get it redone too, but we haven’t started on that yet. When I opened it up today, I noticed some rust on a couple of the gears. I assume that is not good, and they will probably have to be replaced. There is oil in the case, but I am thinking that since the car sat for so long (probably about 10 yrs), moisture probably condensed in there and eventually caused rust. I tried to wipe some of it off, but I’m just not sure about it.
However, I would sure appreciate some help decoding my transmission tag and casting numbers. The riveted metal tag is as follows: RUG A D 011748
The cast numbers are as follows: C8AR-7006-D W, and what appears to be an upside down “1” or incomplete “F” or “E”
Then there is a tag that looks screwed on, but is actually cast into the housing.
It reads: K17
The numbers on the tailshaft are as follows: C70R-7A040-A W 2 and on the cast screw tag: M-5
The toploader has 10 splines on the input shaft, 28 on the output shaft
I have read somewhere that the 68’s had wide ratio transmissions, but when this one was driveable, it sure felt close ratio. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I am also now in the process of detailing my engine compartment. The body shop guys I am talking to say to leave the engine out while they do their thing. However, none of them can get to it for a few months, and then they want to keep it for a few months. I would rather detail the compartment myself, and at least drive the car in the meantime. The body doesn’t look good, but I can live with it.
Thanks again guys for your support and information.
Dale |
| Back to the wiping cams mystery. -- cuzncletus, 06/25/2004
Trying to eliminate possibilities. Any bad experiences with the aluminum spacers that eliminate the locating springs for the rockers? I'm trying to think if anything binds the rockers/pushrods that would wipe the lobes. |
| | RE: Back to the wiping cams mystery. -- giacamo, 06/25/2004
cuzncletus you shure are having bad luck with your cams. if i was you i,d call the boys at comp cams and get a compleat cam package and go from thear fe,s are normly eazy on the cams even with the hottest cams you should be abel to get a coupel of seasons of racing out of one............my two cents..... |
| | | RE: Back to the wiping cams mystery. -- cuzncletus, 06/26/2004
Yo: Giacomo. I'm one step ahead of you. I at least got the CompCam. TRW lifters have got to be OK, don't they? I re-checked the rockers; no friction and hitting the valves at the middle at .050. We'll bolt her together one more time and see what happens. If it doesn't work----- back to hydraulics and the old spring type rocker spacers. I'm getting tired of this sh** |
| | | | RE: Back to the wiping cams mystery. -- John, 06/27/2004
TRW lifters? Well, I was worried about that, so when I picked a Crane Cam, I also used their lifters, pushrods, valve springs and retainers. I also use after market rocker shaft supports and solid aluminim spacers vs springs. However, one thing you might want to check is how you adjust your valve lash. The factory method, where you adjust a certain "list" of intake and exhaust valves and then do it again for the others after rotating the engine some prescribed amount, is fine for a stock cam, but where a high performance cam is used, I have a different method. I rotate the engine to TDC for #1 cylinder and adjust both intake and exhaust for that cylinder. Then I rotate the engine 90 deg and adjust the valves for the next cylinder in the firing order. I keep going by the firing order. When I've finished, the engine has made two complete revolutions. I do this to ensure I will NOT be partially on a lobe during the valve adjustment. Now, I will admit, if this happened, all it will do is keep the valve from opening all the way and shouldn't cause lobe wear, but I am not sure what the imbalance will do, so it might be worth checking. |
| | | RE: Back to the wiping cams mystery. -- Lucas, 06/28/2004
What is your camshaft end play? I believe some early FE blocks required a spacer between the cam gear and camshaft. Too much end play moves the lobes underneath the lifters and it's adios camshaft and lifters! |
| | | | RE: Back to the wiping cams mystery. -- cuzncletus, 06/29/2004
Re; camshaft end play. I'm sitting in front of my computer and not in front of the motor but doesn't the bracket that bolts over the end of the block between the cam and timing gear (uses two allen-headround shoulder bolts) limit end play? |
| | | | | RE: Back to the wiping cams mystery. -- Lucas, 07/01/2004
Negative, Cuz! When you bolt on the timing gear (and fuel pump eccentric if you're using a mechanical pump) the projection on the back of the timing gear passes thru the opening in the cam plate and establishes end play when you torque the center bolt into the cam. Good luck with your valvetrain problem.
Keep us posted when you finally solve the mystery! |
| | | | | | RE: Back to the wiping cams mystery. -- cuzncletus, 07/02/2004
Lucas; aren't we talking about the same thing? The block is a 73 heavy duty. |
| ford c-6 identification -- gene simmons, 06/24/2004
can anyone help me with my tranny ?. i have a 68 ford f250 fe motor and c-6 tranny. all the books list 13 1/2 tailshaft mine is only 7 inch, the speedometer drive is in the last part of the tail and it has a bolt on flange yoke. im told it is a remote transfer case style from a 4wd, but im 2wd camper special i dont want to order a 4wd tranny and it be wrong. any ideas, thanks guys. |
| | RE: ford c-6 identification -- McQ, 06/24/2004
Your C-6 style sounds just like the one in my '68 F100. Mine is the original trans. for sure. I'm not sure when there was a change over to the longer tailshaft style in the pickups. I've seen both in a variety but the "short shaft" flange yoke seems to be the most common.
I am certain that you have the correct trans style in your F250. |
| | | RE: ford c-6 identification -- gene simmons, 06/24/2004
its correct yes, i just want to be sure when i order my new one. thanks
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| | | | you have a ford truck C6.... -- hawkrod, 06/24/2004
it is supposed to be short and have a bolt on yoke but it is not a 4X4 trans. i think the 4X4 is short also but does not have a speedo gear adapter because that is on the transfer case. hawkrod |
| | | | | RE: you have a ford truck C6.... -- John, 06/27/2004
Your C-6 is for the two piece driveshaft used on the 67-72 ford pickups hence the bolt on yoke.73 and later fords used a one piece driveshaft with slip in yoke that allowed use of the car style C-6 in the trucks.There may be some leeway on the change over date so whatever driveshaft your truck has determines the tranny it will use.The 4x4 version is different yet with a different output shaft and special transfer case adapter that replaces the tailshaft housing.Unless the rig has a divorced transfer case,but I've only seen those on 4 speeds so I don't know which if any, C-6 version that would use. |
| | | | | | RE: you have a ford truck C6.... -- gene simmons, 06/28/2004
ya it is a 2 piece drive shaft, thank u all. instead of ordering one im gonna have a local rebuilder do my tranny. i was at first going to do it my self but since ive never done auto's i didnt want to chance it on this one.
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| | | | | | | john can i run a later C-6 -- gene simmons, 06/28/2004
john u now pose a new question for me if i used a later c-6 tranny with the 13 1/2 tailshaft and 1 piece drive shaft , would it work?
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| | | | | | | | RE: john can i run a later C-6 -- McQ, 06/28/2004
Yes, it should work.
We did this exact thing to my father in law's '72 F100. We used a complete C6 from a '67 Merc wagon. He found a very short drive shaft that worked perfectly for this application thus maintaining the two piece drive shaft. Although this was an F100 "Long-bed" we did this change over to.
I would look around wrecking yards at '73 - '76 F250's that had been/were/are automatics. Actually I'd be looking under every '70 later Ford pickup to see what was going on there. |
| | | | | | | | | RE: john can i run a later C-6 -- John, 07/03/2004
P.S. you may have to slide the tranny crossmember back to get the mount to mate up with the longer tailshaft but its a fairly simple matter to drill some new holes for the bolts. |
| | | | | | | | RE: john can i run a later C-6 -- John, 07/03/2004
Gene I don't know if the later one piece driveshaft will be the right length with the car type tranny and a truck that originally had a two piece driveline,but if you were able to come up with a longer shaft there is no reason you couldn't have it shortened.Unfotunately the long wheelbase pickup with the one piece shaft already uses some of the longest shafts out there,so you would have to have the car type C-6 installed in the truck and break out the tape measure and start hunting. |
| Exhaust on a V6 -- paul, 06/24/2004
Does anyone what a V6 mustang that they have customized the exhaust if so has any taken off any of the cats and how does it sound and can you still pass inspection |
| | RE: Go straight to jail. -- Gerry Proctor, 06/24/2004
Removing the catalytic converter is against federal law. Whether you get bagged in an inspection or by a cop giving you the once-over is a question of chance. But no matter what state you live in, it's still illegal so, no, you can't -or shouldn't- pass inspection.
If there is no system available for your car, a muffler shop should be able to get you a bigger pipe and high-flow muffler. But I would check around the aftermarket first for a cat-back system.
As to whether this improves performance to any measureable degree is up to chance. Probably a few more ft.lbs or torque but I wouldn't expect too much since these engines were significantly restrained on the intake side and from an emissions standpoint, you can't put out what you can't take in.
Sound is subjective. I don't know about you but tarting up the exhaust on anything but a V8 sounds kind of funky to me. Exhaust pulse frequency is just off on anything but a boxer when you get below eight cylinders. |
| | And if it's newer, you have to worry about -- Steve M, 06/26/2004
And if it is a model that has an oxygen sensor on the exhaust or converter, your computer will make it run too rich or too lean due to no signal from the catalytic converter sometimes and start throwing codes on your dashboard check engine light. |
| | | what you could do... -- Dusty, 06/27/2004
is if you do have to pass emissions then deffinately get an aftermarket cat. BUT if your inspection is only visual comformation that the cat is there then u could hollow it out. but i don't know what it will do to the computer or the sound other than make it a little louder. but gerry is right, anything other than a v8 sounds wimpy when it breathes free. |
| 67 390FE Oil issues. -- Matt, 06/22/2004
I just rebuilt my first FE motor. I just installed a new mechanical oil pressure gauge and I am not getting the pressures I expected. I purchased a standard oil pump. I just replaced the stock pan and went with the Milidon stock replacement pan. I stuck with the same pickup. I just finished putting the top back together after finding out that the two angled oil galley plugs(press fit) blew out. It still doesn't have a whole lot of pressure but I have alot more than before I fixed this latest issue. I already replaced the oil plugs that are on the back of the motor because I had a leak back there. I am a rooky at this stuff but I enjoy it until I run into a problem I can't figure out. I was just reading that it might be necessary to add an extra quart of oil.
I put the edelbrock heads on with the adjustable rocker arms. The heads seem to tick to much. The temperatures are good. I just ordered a new pickup that was for the Milidon pan. Anybody got any sound advice? |
| | you should give us some numbers, it may help.... -- hawkrod, 06/23/2004
also, a common mistake is to leave out the oil plug for the passageway that ends behind the distributor. if the plug is not there it oils the drive gear real well but pressure sucks. you can check to see if it is in by pulling the distributor and turning the oil pump with a priming tool. if you missed the plug you will see a ton of oil hitting the shaft of the priming tool! hawkrod |
| | | RE: That stock pickup: -- Robert, 06/23/2004
I'd put the milodon pickup in before I did too much more.
I tried to go the other way (Milodon pickup, stock pan) and found that the Milodon pan must be deeper as the pickup is too long for the stock pan. So, if you have a stock pickup, in a Milodon pan it is probably way too far off of the pan floor.
FWIW |
| | | RE: you should give us some numbers, it may help.... -- Matt, 06/23/2004
What kind of numbers do you need? Here are the cam numbers: 352-428 V8 2106* duration int.272° exh.282° @.50Int.194° exh.204° lift @cam int0.265 exh.0.28 lift@valve int.0.46 exh.0.48. I actually purchased the power package from edelbrock in the power range idle to 5500 rpm. I punched it out .30 over and put hyperutectic pistons in it. Here are the aluminum head specs: int. port 170cc exh.port vol.125cc Chamb. vol.72cc Deck thick. 5/8" Int. valve size2.09" (B) Exh valve size 1.66" (B) Valve spring dia1.55" – – Max. valave lift. 600". Let me know if these are not the numbers you are looking for. |
| | | | oil pressure numbers -- hawkrod, 06/23/2004
how many pounds at idle at 100 rpm at 3500 etc... also maybe i missed it but did you use restrictors in the heads? hawkrod |
| | | | | RE: oil pressure numbers -- Matt, 06/23/2004
No I did not use the restrictors in the head. The numbers that I am getting are about 20-25psi at about 1200 rpm and when I rev it gets up around 40psi amybe a little more. |
| | | | | RE: oil pressure numbers -- Matt, 06/24/2004
OK Hawk, the numbers are as such. When it is first started with 5 quarts of oil at 1500 rpm the gauge is at 25psi when I take it up to 3000rpm it goes up to 40-45 psi. When it gets to about 200 deg in temp the pressure drops to 10psi at 1800 rpm. I have a buddy that suggested swaping out the oil to 20w50. It seemed to help. I got the pickup and it was not the bolt on type. It looked like one that would need to be welded. I got the high volume oil pump but didn't try it yet. What next? |
| | | | | | oops i misread your post -- ed, 06/27/2004
hey matt if your oil pressure goes to 10 psi at 1800 rpms you have a problem.
that is what a 390 did when i blew a plug under the intake.
did you fix all the plugs?
i only fixed one on a 390 and then a month later another one blew.
you should have at least 20 pounds at idle when at operating temp.any less and you have something not quite right.
be persistent and you should find the problem. |
| | wow the same exact thing happened to me -- ed, 06/23/2004
yes matt i had the same problem one time.
just curious how did you fix the plugs?..........also my engine was a stock 390 oil pump and the pressure numbers were similar to yours.i ran it like that.
what kind of pressure numbers did you expect? |
| | RE: 67 390FE Oil issues. -- Lucas, 06/28/2004
It appears that your engine clearances are far too large. Oil pressure is generated when the oil encounters resistance somewhere in it's flow path. Less restriction (large bearing clearances) means low oil pressure. |
| | | RE: 67 390FE Oil issues. -- Lucas, 06/28/2004
To follow up on a previous post: a properly clearanced FE with a Melling 57HV oil pump at operating temp and idling at about 800-900 RPM should see 30-35 psig, rev the engine and the oil pressure gauge should follow the tach to at least 60-70 psig at 3000 rpm. If you want to speak to an experienced FE builder, contact Bill Parham at Southern Automotive in McDonough, GA. (770)898-9360 |
| Head I D -- Bob, 06/22/2004
I know this is a FE forum but I need help Identifieing a 351c 4v head. Where are the markings at on the head. Thanks in advance. |
| | RE: Head I D -- giacamo, 06/22/2004
the 4v cleavland heads have a 4 on the corner of the head and thay have larger intake and exaust ports that will not mach the 2v intake and exaust manifolds. thay are eazy to spot once youve sean the diferances in port sizes. |
| | | RE: Head I D -- Bob, 06/22/2004
I knew they had the #4 on the corners of the head but what about a casting #s for the chamber size and to tell if the have hardened seat and what year they are/ |
| | | | RE: Head I D -- John, 06/23/2004
Bob if you flip the head upside down look underneath the intake ports in the area where the pushrods pass thru the heads and you will see casting #s it typically will not have the numeric portion just the prefix such as D0AE and not necessarily close by will be the suffix code such as A,C, or GA |
| | | | | RE: Head I D -- glennz, 06/23/2004
basicly they only made 3 type of heads for the cleveland, 2V open, 4V open, and 4V quench, the opens were 76 cc and the quench were near 57 cc, quench only made in 1970-71 so woul dhave a doae or d1ae casting number on bottom side of head, all 351M/400 heads were identicle till 1985 as the 2V heads...
although production did continue in aussie with a 2V quench head, no american made true cleveland head had hardened seats, last made were 73 although claims of 1974 clevelands are made, but have not seen any true 351 clevelands in 1974, the 351m/400 heads did have the hardened seats...
depending how much you drive the car the cost sometimes does not justify hardened seats, if you are going to pound n the engine, by all means get them done, but if daily driven or weekend driven not to much of a concern, i drag raced my cleveland for near 5 yrs with no hardened seats with no problems...
check out the site for a ton of cleveland stuff and pics of many cars including mine
http://stangstable.com/
glenn z |
| | | | | | RE: Head I D -- Bob, 06/24/2004
Thanks for all the help. I need to pull the intake for the casting #s I kinda figured I would have to. |
| | | | | | check ebay.... -- hawkrod, 06/24/2004
if you want to see true 74 clevelands look to the torino's, a ton of the 74's had 'em and many were Q code 4 barrel. i have a spare carb right now for one if you have a starsky and hutch clone that needs one! LOL. the 74 clevelands were also shipped to italy and came as standard equipment in panteras. the pantera engine is not special, it is just the standard Q code cleveland 4V as teh vehicles had to meet emissions standards in some areas. hawkrod |
| FE Airgap -- 390 ranger, 06/22/2004
I emailed edelbrock inquiring about an air gap for the Fe. They replied saying that one was in the design stage. Just thought everyone would like to now that new Fe products are still coming. |
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