Yes Gary those particular exhaust manifolds should fit your '63 Galaxie. A friend has a '63 XL 390/4-speed(BW T-10) with factory power steering (resevoir mounted on the left/driver's side inner fender panel). Another friend(this is you John..)attempted to install these manifolds onto his 427 in a '61 Starliner with power steering. This car is also a 4-speed. However, he ran into interference with the power steering ram unit. He considered a modification to the ram bracket to lower it I believe but then he said just screw it, he's switching to manual steering. It had the shorty HP exhaust manifolds before and they fit fine with the PS and previous C-6CJ combination. But....which transmission do you have? Automatic with column shift control? Now you've got a little problem. You will not be able to shift the column lever into Park. I saw this exact thing in a '64 390 Galaxie. The guy felt the long HP exhaust manifolds were important enough that he didn't need Park. Just a good parking brake sytem with the car in Neutral for parking/starting. Stick shift? Should not have any problems.

Gary,
If you decide not to use the cast iron headers land want to sell them let me know. I guess the long 427 cast iron headers aren't for PS cars unless it is modified to clear the PS cylinder.
Thanks,
Jim
jthomas427@sbcglobal.net

n/m

Boss 429. Early version. John

According to my resources, that is a factory 428 CJ carb, part # C8OZ-9510-AA, from a manual trans with T/E.

I checked the carb id tag on the holley on my 428CJ and found a part number of C9AF-U. To be accurate 'C9AF-U' is not a 'part number'. Rather, its a (shorthand) identifying code by which the dealer can look up the real part number, using a crossreference. Quite literally, they can't order a 'C9AF-U carburetor'. Is this a factory 428CJ holley (735 cfm)? Sorry, but no. You have an over-the-counter service part sold to fit many applications, including various 428CID engines. It saw no use as a factory' carb, whatsoever. If so is this the manual or automatic version? As a non-stock service part it is really neither 'automatic' nor 'manual.' But it does have the integral bellcrank needed for use with an A/T kick-down rod. Mr F

Iv'e got one that is a good 4 inch bore but I cant remember what I took it out of. It will be a good candidate for a 410 std bore engine that I seem to have plenty of pistons and cranks for and will be for sale soon.

You can use the original lifters if you dont get them mixed up. Then you wont have to worry about cam break in again.

No problem, just dont recommend doing it the other way around

Only the 427 unless there was some special one off engine using a 427 casting.

There are 390 blocks that say 66 427 on the back and some have the undrilled castings for the oil gallery and relief valve on the back that are common to the side oiler. The rest of the block is standard FE.

There are quite a few 427 blocks out there. There are the true side-oilers, which are expensive due to the long drilled passages, with side drilled taps into bearings; there are the hi po side oilers with the fully communicated crank, that acts as yet another oil gallery; there are marine 427 blocks many of which (not all) are cast as side oilers but not fully machined, so they are the "center oiler" or "top oiler" version; then there's the bastard two-bolt hydraulic cammed 427 built in small quantity for the 1968 Cougar GTE, only 358 of which were built with this detuned 390-HP version of the 427.

Now I always thought the history books said the 406 testing program was what caused Ford (according to engineer Scussel) to build a 4-bolt (cross bolted) 406 and then 427. I have heard there are a few cross bolted 390's, but these must have been built from the 427 castings or something, on a custom race-only basis by Ford or Holman Moody.

the guys are right, there's nothing you can do to a normal 390 to make it a side oiler, due to the fact that it wasn't cast as a side oiler with the appropriate bulge in the driver side of the block. Of course, there are kits to do this, for a price, but they rely on external plumbing, etc.

Ford once said, and Shelby seemed to agree, that a side-oiler in anything other than a full race machine is a waste of good machinery. For those guys, "full race" means endurance racing like Daytona, Sebring, LeMans, and NASCAR.

P

This is what the 1968 Ford shop manual says it should look like from a side-view of the engine.

[Imaged edited for size by Admin.]

Not sure how to get the old one out, except to say VERY carefully :)

Here's one source for a new one.

http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadeffci&GHOME=www.macsautoparts.com/&TITLE=Macs_Auto_Parts

In the "Search" window at the top of the page enter the word "bypass" (no quotes) annd you're there.

Oops, should have read '65-'68 Galaxie FE bellhousings.

The clutch mounts differently on a Galaxie so you need a bell housing with the ball mount for the clutch shaft on it.

I do not think your tack will work with the electronic ignition. Since the factory tach works off of the power wire to the coil, I have been told that the factory tachs only work with point type ignitions. Although I think the Pertronix ignition system will operate the factory tach.

Wait and see what others post.

I have a 67 Mustang Standard wiring harnass with a 67 Tach dash. The tach works off of the signal to the positive side of the coil. The voltage goes through the tach to the coil.

My tach works fine with points + stock coil or stock dist with Pertronix and Pertronix coil. It worked with a Mallory Unilite (elect ignition) dist with the stock coil, but it didn't work with a Mallory ignition box. That's because the CD boxes get their power directly from the battery/alternator, so there's no signal in the hot wires under the dash.

Oh yeah, I originally got a used wiring harnass for the tach dash, but the connections were all crappy so I bought a new harnass - only they don't make 'em for tach cars. I found the hot wire (it's the one with the long resistor wire I think), and I spliced two connectors into it. It's not too hard to find in the wiring diagram. Worked like a charm.