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Original Message
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| RE: Timing? |
| By robert - 08/26/2000 5:22:59 AM; IP 38.27.177.76 |
| some thoughts on your timing.hope this may help.1. its is very commen for the timing ring to slip on the crank pully, i was made aware of this in a article by ponycar carbs in cazenovia ny. Apperently when you go to time the car with the timing light your lining the timing mark up to the factory specs, but the ring has slipped on the pully reletive to top dead center on the crank .So in essence you are not timing any thing at all. Ponycars solution is basicly to advance the timing to the point the car stumbles at idle then back it off a few degrees. I assume the you would do this with the vacuam advance dissconnected. At this point you will have acheived about as much advance as the engine will tolerate. you can then test drive the car with the vacuam advance still diconnected and see it it pings. if it pings back off the timing in 2 degree increments till the pinging stops. assuming this all works this would be your new intial timing setting. Now if you have a adjustable vacuam advance unit you should connect the hose and road test the car in high gear under load. using your allen key inside the hose fiting on the advance unit adjust the vacuam advance for the most advance with out pinging. reset your base idle on the carb and your done. NOTE if you disconect the coil and pull the #1 spark plug you can put a pen or pencil in the spark plug hole and have some one turn the engine over by hand with a socket and breaker bar untill your feel the piston hit top dead center. at this point the 0 degree mark on the balancer should line up with your timing pointer.[ if the piston is on the top of the exhaust stroke you may have to give the crank another turn to get to top dead center on the intake stroke, I"ll be damned if i can remember if it lines up every revolution or every other one] this should give you indication if the balancer has rotated relative to the crank. With #1 piston at top dead center is the distributer rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug lead on the cap? it should be....if not. the distributer is probably off by a tooth 3.I questin your timing figures of 40 degrees and 76 degrees total advance. you figure out your timeing by taking your intial advance i.e the 10 degree factory setting and mutiplying by 2 then adding the amount of advance in the distributer.{typicly about 12 degrees} or in other words 10/2+12=32 degrees total advance. Ford often stamped the amount of distributer advance on the breaker plate if you pull the cap you may see a 11 or 13 stamped inside. There is also a chance that somehow the cam sprocket was installed a tooth off.if your rebuild included new rings it may take about 600 mi to break the motor in. you will also need to reset the timing, idle mixture and curb idle once the motor has settled in. Unfortunatly is sounds that it is very likely that the cam timing gear may be off by a tooth. But i would definatly make sure tha it is not a ignition or carb problem first. Also have you checked the intake and carb base for vacuam leaks? Last but not least is the simply let the motor run at the advance curve it runs best on Reguardless of what the Factory Specifations say. Some of this may seem real basic but i dont have any idea as to what type of automobile knowlage you posess. 70 Ltds are cool! 390 2V is an excellent all around engine and if you didnt tell any body riding in the car they would assume that it had a 4V from the way they run. let me Know how it works out and good luck. gotta go my 1967 colony park wagon has a 390 2V but by any luck buy tommorow it will be a 390 with a 1967 s code 4V manifold, a 1966 police inercepter autolite carb. a 428 cobrajet cam with a 427 HV oil pump and a 427 lowriser oilpan. hey what can i say its gotta trailer hitch. Airstream eliminator Anyone? |
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